GF Farm Crepes with Eggs & Greens
Aaron and I first got our start farming in rural northwestern Russia, in a village 3 hours by train from St. Petersburg. In those days, a holiday we really enjoyed was the pre-Lenten feast called Ма́сленица, or “Maslenitsa” or “Butter Week.” Among other excesses, Russians enjoy great big stacks of buttery pancakes during Maslenitsa. And these pancakes are called blini.
For centuries, French culture and cuisine had a big impact on Russians. You may notice that blini bear more than a passing resemblance to French crepes. They are traditionally made with buckwheat flour, making them acceptable to people who don’t eat gluten.
In addition to being the ultimate Russian street food and the headlining dish of Maslenitsa, the word blin–singular for blini–is also a mild swear word, something like “dang”or “shoot.” If at any point in the process of making these pancakes you run into some trouble, it would be wholly appropriate to smack the side of the pan with your spatula and mutter the word blin! to console yourself.
In springtime, both eggs and greens are at their most glorious, abundant peak, which makes this dish just as seasonal as it is complete and nutritious. After the pancakes are made, the eggs are cooked directly on top of the crepe, then filled with greens and folded in the triangular shape of a pocket handkerchief.
Be advised that despite your most careful preparations, the first couple pancakes won’t turn out well. There’s even a saying for this in Russian: the first pancake is always a disaster. Пе́рвый блин всегда́ ко́мом.
This recipe makes about a dozen pancakes, including some pretty ugly ones.
Read our original recipe in Clean Eating magazine.
INGREDIENTS
1 1/4 cups whole buckwheat flour (substitute whole wheat flour for all or part of this)
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter—or a light refined oil, like sunflower
PROCEDURE
Like any recipe that makes use of just a few simple ingredients, technique is everything with blini. Some parts of the process might not feel intuitive. If it’s your first batch, you’ll know you’ve set yourself up for success when you’re deeply concerned that your batter is way too thin and your pan is far too hot.
To get started, whisk the above batter ingredients together in a bowl, or just throw everything into the blender and whirl.
Your pan should be quite hot. On my stovetop, it’s a high medium-high. Test the pan for readiness by flicking your wet fingers at it. If the water droplets bounce and evaporate right away, it’s hot enough. If butter scorches instantly in the pan, it’s too hot.
To keep your pan seasoned between pancakes, you have options. I like to unwrap just the end of a stick of butter and apply it to the pan whenever it seems to need it, not unlike a giant chapstick. You can also use a paper towel moistened with a light, refined oil like sunflower or canola. Third, you can cut a potato in half, spear the rounded end with a fork, and smear the surface of the pan with the oiled, cut face of the potato. I’ll give you three guesses which is the traditional method.
Oil the pan with your method of choice, and pour in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of batter, swirling the pan to distribute a very thin layer across the bottom. When the pancake is cooked enough to flip, do.
I often find I don't need to use a spatula to flip the pancakes. You can tell when they are done cooking on the first side because the edges will begin to dry and curl up toward you, at which point they can be picked up by hand and flipped. More experienced blini-makers than I are able to flip the pan itself. By all means, do use a butter knife or a spatula if you want something between you and the hot iron.
At this point, you have options. If you are making blini to eat right now, use a second pan to prep the greens filing below.
Blini prepared up to this point also keep well in the fridge. Sometimes I’ll keep a stack of them at the ready for the week ahead. Covered well, they’re a handy base for a quick weeknight meal.
EGGS + GREENS FILLING
Any greens you like: spinach, collards, whatever you have on hand
1 shallot, some spring leeks, or a small onion, minced
1/2 pound mushrooms, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 eggs
Sauté the chopped shallot or onion in olive oil. As it softens, add the chopped mushrooms and continue to sauté them in the same pan. Turn off the heat, add the spinach, and cover until just wilted. Toss.
Remove the greens and mushrooms from the pan.
Add a partially cooked crepe to the hot pan.
If you're feeling bold, whisk an egg and add it directly to the surface of the second side of the crepe as it cooks. It also works fine to cook the egg separately and add it to the crepe when it is done, a la scrambled eggs.
Most delicous served piping hot.